Yes, both sides have a running sshd.
xxx@rasp4 ~ [SIGINT]> sudo systemctl status sshd.service
[sudo] Passwort für xxx:
● sshd.service - OpenSSH Daemon
Loaded: loaded (/usr/lib/systemd/system/sshd.service; enabled; vendor preset: disabled)
Active: active (running) since Thu 2022-03-31 20:33:49 CEST; 1h 12min ago
Main PID: 27547 (sshd)
Tasks: 1 (limit: 4150)
CPU: 101ms
CGroup: /system.slice/sshd.service
└─27547 "sshd: /usr/bin/sshd -D [listener] 0 of 10-100 startups"
Mär 31 20:33:49 rasp4 systemd[1]: Started OpenSSH Daemon.
Mär 31 20:33:49 rasp4 sshd[27547]: Server listening on 0.0.0.0 port 22.
Mär 31 20:33:49 rasp4 sshd[27547]: Server listening on :: port 22.
Mär 31 20:53:03 rasp4 sshd[29308]: Connection reset by 192.168.1.102 port 48830 [preauth]
When I turn the VPN off, ssh is much chattier, however, I still cannot connect. This is from the mac trying to connect to the rasp:
OpenSSH_8.9p1, OpenSSL 1.1.1m 14 Dec 2021
debug1: Reading configuration data /home/xxx/.ssh/config
debug1: Reading configuration data /etc/ssh/ssh_config
debug2: resolve_canonicalize: hostname 192.168.1.103 is address
debug3: expanded UserKnownHostsFile '~/.ssh/known_hosts' -> '/home/xxx/.ssh/known_hosts'
debug3: expanded UserKnownHostsFile '~/.ssh/known_hosts2' -> '/home/xxx/.ssh/known_hosts2'
debug3: ssh_connect_direct: entering
debug1: Connecting to 192.168.1.103 [192.168.1.103] port 22.
debug3: set_sock_tos: set socket 3 IP_TOS 0x48
debug1: Connection established.
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_rsa type 0
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_rsa-cert type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ecdsa type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ecdsa-cert type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ecdsa_sk type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ecdsa_sk-cert type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ed25519 type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ed25519-cert type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ed25519_sk type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_ed25519_sk-cert type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_xmss type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_xmss-cert type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_dsa type -1
debug1: identity file /home/xxx/.ssh/id_dsa-cert type -1
debug1: Local version string SSH-2.0-OpenSSH_8.9
debug1: Remote protocol version 2.0, remote software version OpenSSH_8.9
debug1: compat_banner: match: OpenSSH_8.9 pat OpenSSH* compat 0x04000000
debug2: fd 3 setting O_NONBLOCK
debug1: Authenticating to 192.168.1.103:22 as 'xxx'
debug3: record_hostkey: found key type ED25519 in file /home/xxx/.ssh/known_hosts:1
debug3: record_hostkey: found key type RSA in file /home/xxx/.ssh/known_hosts:2
debug3: record_hostkey: found key type ECDSA in file /home/xxx/.ssh/known_hosts:3
debug3: load_hostkeys_file: loaded 3 keys from 192.168.1.103
debug1: load_hostkeys: fopen /home/xxx/.ssh/known_hosts2: No such file or directory
debug1: load_hostkeys: fopen /etc/ssh/ssh_known_hosts: No such file or directory
debug1: load_hostkeys: fopen /etc/ssh/ssh_known_hosts2: No such file or directory
debug3: order_hostkeyalgs: have matching best-preference key type ssh-ed25519-cert-v01@openssh.com, using HostkeyAlgorithms verbatim
debug3: send packet: type 20
debug1: SSH2_MSG_KEXINIT sent
debug3: receive packet: type 20
debug1: SSH2_MSG_KEXINIT received
debug2: local client KEXINIT proposal
debug2: KEX algorithms: curve25519-sha256,curve25519-sha256@libssh.org,ecdh-sha2-nistp256,ecdh-sha2-nistp384,ecdh-sha2-nistp521,sntrup761x25519-sha512@openssh.com,diffie-hellman-group-exchange-sha256,diffie-hellman-group16-sha512,diffie-hellman-group18-sha512,diffie-hellman-group14-sha256,ext-info-c
debug2: host key algorithms: ssh-ed25519-cert-v01@openssh.com,ecdsa-sha2-nistp256-cert-v01@openssh.com,ecdsa-sha2-nistp384-cert-v01@openssh.com,ecdsa-sha2-nistp521-cert-v01@openssh.com,sk-ssh-ed25519-cert-v01@openssh.com,sk-ecdsa-sha2-nistp256-cert-v01@openssh.com,rsa-sha2-512-cert-v01@openssh.com,rsa-sha2-256-cert-v01@openssh.com,ssh-ed25519,ecdsa-sha2-nistp256,ecdsa-sha2-nistp384,ecdsa-sha2-nistp521,sk-ssh-ed25519@openssh.com,sk-ecdsa-sha2-nistp256@openssh.com,rsa-sha2-512,rsa-sha2-256
debug2: ciphers ctos: chacha20-poly1305@openssh.com,aes128-ctr,aes192-ctr,aes256-ctr,aes128-gcm@openssh.com,aes256-gcm@openssh.com
debug2: ciphers stoc: chacha20-poly1305@openssh.com,aes128-ctr,aes192-ctr,aes256-ctr,aes128-gcm@openssh.com,aes256-gcm@openssh.com
debug2: MACs ctos: umac-64-etm@openssh.com,umac-128-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-512-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha1-etm@openssh.com,umac-64@openssh.com,umac-128@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256,hmac-sha2-512,hmac-sha1
debug2: MACs stoc: umac-64-etm@openssh.com,umac-128-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-512-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha1-etm@openssh.com,umac-64@openssh.com,umac-128@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256,hmac-sha2-512,hmac-sha1
debug2: compression ctos: none,zlib@openssh.com,zlib
debug2: compression stoc: none,zlib@openssh.com,zlib
debug2: languages ctos:
debug2: languages stoc:
debug2: first_kex_follows 0
debug2: reserved 0
debug2: peer server KEXINIT proposal
debug2: KEX algorithms: curve25519-sha256,curve25519-sha256@libssh.org,ecdh-sha2-nistp256,ecdh-sha2-nistp384,ecdh-sha2-nistp521,sntrup761x25519-sha512@openssh.com,diffie-hellman-group-exchange-sha256,diffie-hellman-group16-sha512,diffie-hellman-group18-sha512,diffie-hellman-group14-sha256
debug2: host key algorithms: rsa-sha2-512,rsa-sha2-256,ecdsa-sha2-nistp256,ssh-ed25519
debug2: ciphers ctos: chacha20-poly1305@openssh.com,aes128-ctr,aes192-ctr,aes256-ctr,aes128-gcm@openssh.com,aes256-gcm@openssh.com
debug2: ciphers stoc: chacha20-poly1305@openssh.com,aes128-ctr,aes192-ctr,aes256-ctr,aes128-gcm@openssh.com,aes256-gcm@openssh.com
debug2: MACs ctos: umac-64-etm@openssh.com,umac-128-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-512-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha1-etm@openssh.com,umac-64@openssh.com,umac-128@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256,hmac-sha2-512,hmac-sha1
debug2: MACs stoc: umac-64-etm@openssh.com,umac-128-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-512-etm@openssh.com,hmac-sha1-etm@openssh.com,umac-64@openssh.com,umac-128@openssh.com,hmac-sha2-256,hmac-sha2-512,hmac-sha1
debug2: compression ctos: none,zlib@openssh.com
debug2: compression stoc: none,zlib@openssh.com
debug2: languages ctos:
debug2: languages stoc:
debug2: first_kex_follows 0
debug2: reserved 0
debug1: kex: algorithm: curve25519-sha256
debug1: kex: host key algorithm: ssh-ed25519
debug1: kex: server->client cipher: chacha20-poly1305@openssh.com MAC: <implicit> compression: none
debug1: kex: client->server cipher: chacha20-poly1305@openssh.com MAC: <implicit> compression: none
debug3: send packet: type 30
debug1: expecting SSH2_MSG_KEX_ECDH_REPLY